viernes, 14 de septiembre de 2007

HIJOS DEL AGOBIO 180m 7a. Contrafuerte Punta Zanzi. Cajón del Maipo, Chile


HIJOS DEL AGOBIO . 6C+ 180 m
Contrafuerte de la Punta Zanzi
Beautifull and demanding route on abrasive hard sandstone .
Need a full set of aliens and friends . 10 bolts on the route including belays
While climbing at altitude the OVNI's may appear...Some has been seen there



EL TEMPLE DE HANNUMAN 160m 7c+. Pilar del Segre (Vilanova de Meià), Catalunya


EL TEMPLE DE HANNUMAN . 7c+/8a 150m VILANOVA DE MEIÀ
this line goes throw the obvious overhang in the middle of El Pilar del Segre. This area in Vilanova had only aid climbing routes but not for ever... the quality of the moves ,the excelent limestone, tufas to hold and a gruyere overhang at the end of the Gran Bòveda.5 pitches. 3 pitches with continuous overhang. 7c, 7c+, 7c+ and two more on gold granite with a last small overhang on top. 7a+, 6c+
All bolted. It was opened from below most in aid, basically hooking.







jueves, 13 de septiembre de 2007

EL GUARDIÁN DE PACHAMAMA 700m 7b. Puscanturpa Sur (Cordillera Huayhuash, Perú)).




EL GUARDIAN DE PACHAMAMA
. 7b 700 m-
PUSCANTURPA SUR . CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH

A magic place of mother earth. It was opened in july 2005. The only route of this wall at that moment. The climb is alpine, at pretty high altitude, 5300m on top stopped by a field of penitentes,ice formations.The rock is graneodorite creating dihedrals like the ones of basalt. Perfect cracks in the 100m wall after first pitches. Then follows a buttress to a final wall very airy.










VIA LACTEA 280m 7b+. Peñón Blanco (Durango, México)




VIA LACTEA. 5.12c 280m.PEÑOÑ BLANCO. DURANGO

This beautiful granite dome stands high on the semidesert Sierra de Durango. It's rock quality and the solitude you feel there were more than enough reasons to go for a new route...
When the sun goes down Via Lactea appears showing its way to infinity



MALI. SURI TONDO. LUNAR ECLIPSE 420m 7c+










LUNAR ECLIPSE . 7c+ 420m MAIN DE FATIMA
North Face SURI TONDO
Opened march 2007
Splendid straight up line mixing cracks, offwidth, faces and roofs (7) on excellent rock.
Mandatory 6c+/C2
Gear: 1.5 sets of aliens and camalots to number 4,5. Bolts 8mm includng belays.